Its 950s-style yellow formica tables have survived recent renovations, and the chrome terrace is a lunchtime magnet for "young, cool trendy types in sunglasses". Lemisse declares this a great spot for people-watching, with mouthwatering tartes an added bonus.Where: 4 rue de Charonne, 750 (00 33 48 06 80 33) Metro: Ledru-Rollin. How much: moderate - around 2FF for a coffee.25LE VIADUC DES ARTSYou'll find few prettier settings for contemporary art than this old railway viaduct, every arch of which houses a different craft shop. "Practically the entire north side of the street is dedicated to an extremely high standard of skilled workmanship and craft," says Margo Daly. "Walk the length of the viaduct for a show of ceramics, tapestry, sculpture and much more." Lemisse Al-Hafidh agrees: "This is not your mass-produced stuff. It's great for browsing, though not especially cheap." Courting couples should steer their partners to Cecile et Jeanne at number 49 (00 33 43 4 24 24), whose innovative jewellery might inspire a fitting conclusion to a romantic weekend.Where: 9-29 av Daumesnil, 7502.

Metro: Bastille/Gare de Lyon.26A WALK THROUGH THE SEWERSJoin the three million baguettes that pass daily into Paris's sewers. Built in the 9th century, they feature in Victor Hugo's Les Miserables, and are recommended by Kate Sanderson "They don't smell too bad," she says. "You cross little bridges, and are told how the sewers work and how they clean them. If you've seen or read Les Miserables, you can imagine Valjean and Javert crawling around down here. I think I saw one or two rats." Less adventurous visitors should content themselves with the introductory film and museum Where: 93 quai d'Orsay, 75007 (00 33 47 05 0 29).

Metro: Alma-Marceau.How much: FF25; students, under-6s FF20.27BRASSERIE DE L'ISLE ST-LOUIS"The old-fashioned Alsatian food - choucroute garni, ham hock, steaks - is not fantastic," admits Natasha Edwards, "but the atmosphere here is great" - mostly as a result of the cafe's policy of squashing together a hotchpotch of people at wooden tables laden with tankards of Alsatian beer. "Customers range from rugby players to old ladies who live on the isle coming here with their grandchildren, tourists from all over the world, families, couples...," says Natasha Great entertainment at a reasonable price Where: 55 quai de Bourbon, 7504 (00 33 43 54 02 59) Metro: Pont Marie. How much: around FF50 a head.28D'ANGLETERREAt the edge of St Germain, this hotel exudes low-key elegance. "It's a little bit old-fashioned," says Sue Nottingham, "what I think of as a typical Parisian hotel." Somewhat atypical, however, is its history: it was once the British Embassy, and as such played a diplomatic role in the American War of Independence.